Diamond Jewelry Glossary of Terms
Gemology Glossary of Terms
* Adamantine (a) Brilliant light reflecting and transmitting properties in
diamonds and other gemstones, known as adamantine lustre.
* Adularescence (n) A white or bluish reflection coming from a definite plane
in a mineral when the stone is turned. The name comes from the feldspar variety
adularia and is best known in the gemstone ³moonstone.²
* Allochromatism (a) Coloration caused by the presence of a trace element or
impurity that is foreign to the crystal lattice.
* AGS (n) American Gem Society (AGS) An industry trade association of professional
gemologists based in Las Vegas, Nevada. AGS was founded in 1934 by Robert M.
Shipley.
* Allotrope (n) An element which exist in two or more different forms in the
same physical state. Diamond and Graphite are both allotropes of carbon yet
diamond is hard and graphite is soft. Diamonds crystallize in the cubic crystal
system, and Graphite crystallizes in the hexagonal system.
* Alluvial (a) A gemstone that is created from soil or sediments deposited
by a river or other running water.
* Amorphous (a) Amorphous materials are the result rapidly cooling molten material.
The cooling reduces the mobility of the material's molecules before they can
pack into a more thermodynamically favorable crystalline state.
* Anisotropic (a) A doubly refractive gemstone such as synthetic Moissanite
or natural Zircon.
* Asterism, Asteriated (n, a) Optical phenomenon displayed by some rubies,
sapphires that disperses reflected light in the shape of a star.
* Beryl (n) Beryl is a mineral made up of beryllium aluminium cyclosilicate.
Pure beryl is colorless, colored beryl has been tinted by impurities; Green
beryl is called emerald, blue beryl is aquamarine. The name comes from the
Greek beryllos for the blue-green color of sea water.
* Biaxial Gemstones (a, n) Biaxial gemstones have two optical axes that do
not line up to the c-axis. In uniaxial stones, the optic axis is parallel to
the c-axis.
* Birefringence (n) In a anisotropic or doubly refractive mineral, birefringence
is the difference in values between the highest refractive indices and lowest
refractive indices.
* Brilliance (n) A quantitative measure of the amount of light return through
the gem. A GIA Standardized term.
* Brilliant Cut (n) Introduced in the middle of the 17th century, a round brilliant
cut is used when the diamond crystal is an octahedron composed of eight equilateral
triangles. Two stones can be cut from one such crystal.
* Bruting (v) Cutting the rough to the round girdle outline on a brilliant
cut.
* Cabochon (n) Gemstone shaped and polished into an oval as opposed to facetted.
Appropriate for most opaque and/or soft gems.
* Calcite (n) Calcite is a calcium carbonate and one of the most widely distributed
minerals on the Earth's surface. It is a common constituent of sedimentary
rocks such as limestone.
* Chalcedony (n) Chalcedony is one of the cryptocrystalline varieties of the
mineral quartz, having a waxy (semi-gloss) luster.
* Chatoyancy (v) Derived from the French word, meaning 'cat's eye," chatoyancy
is an optical reflectance effect seen in certain gemstones. Chatoyancy is caused
by the fibrous structure of a mineral or gemstone such as "tiger eye" quartz.
* Chiastolite (n) A metamorphic mineral, Chiastolite is a variety of Andalusite.
It contains cross-shaped inclusions of carbon.
* Cleavage (n) Describes an internal crack or break in a gemstone along a "cleavage
plane". Also describes the tendency of a crystal to split along the grain.
The bonding between atoms is weaker along certain planes within the crystal.
Described as: Perfect (easy), Distinct, and Indistinct.
* Colluvium, Colluvial (n, a) Loose deposit of rock debris that has accumulated
at the base of a cliff or slope. Deposited by sliding or falling (gravity).
* Craton (n) Portions of the earth's crust that have remained stable for at
least 1,500 million years.
* Cryptocrystalline (a) Cryptocrystalline describes a rock's texture which
is so finely crystalline that its crystalline nature is only visible microscopically
by viewing a thin section by transmitted polarized light.
* Crystal (n) Crystal is a solid symmetrical structure in which the atoms and
molecules are packed in a regularly ordered, repeating pattern extending in
all three spatial dimensions.
* Crystal Habit (n) Habit refers to the way in which a crystal's atomic structure
determines the external shape of the crystal.
* Dichroic (a) A crystal that appears to change color when viewed from different
angles. Similar to polarization.
* Dispersion (n) Describes the way a diamond breaks up a ray of white light
into its component colors.
* Dop (n) Also known as a "Dop Stick" or "Dop Chuck", a
dop is a rod used to hold the rough gemstone during the grinding process. The
rough is usually held to the dop with wax glue.
* Druzes (Druzi) (n) A bed has a very fine crystalline structure similar to
sugar or salt crystals in appearance and texture. Aggregate of minute crystals
coating a surface.
* Eluvium, Eluvial (n, a) Residual secondary deposits of soil and rock particles
transported and re-destributed by wind.
* Fancy cut (a, n) Macles and other oddly shaped crystals are cut in a fancy
cut in order to minimize waste and follow the rough shape of the stone.
* Facet (n) Flat surfaces and planes in cut in geometric shapes. A faceted
cut is used to create a gemstone that sparkles with internally reflected light.
* Feathers (n) Tiny cracks within the stone that resemble feathers. Generally,
feathers do not affect durability unless they reach the stone's surface.
* Fire (v) Portions of light returning through the gem that are dispersed into
the spectrum of rainbow colors or "fire". A GIA Standardized term.
* Fluorescence (v) Blue, yellow or white glow seen on a diamond when viewed
in ultra-violet light or direct sunlight.
* Fossilization (n) In order for an organism to be fossilized, the remains
normally need to be covered by sediment as soon as possible. Additionally,
an organism can become petrified when it comes to rest in an anoxic (oxygen-free)
environment such as at the bottom of a lake or sea-bed.
* Fracture (n) When a mineral contains no planes of weakness (cleavage), it
will break in random directions.
* Fracture Filling (n) Injecting colorless plastics or glass into fractures
and inclusions to hide imperfections.
* Gabbro (a) A dense, coarse-grained greenish dark colored rock igneous rock
that is chemically similar to basalt.
* Gemmy (a) A stone that glitters like a gem.
* GIA (n) Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the world's foremost authority
in gemology, diamond grading, jewelry education, gemology research.
* Girdle (n) The flattened edge of a diamond or precious gemstone.
* Girdle Fringes (n) Sometimes referred to as "Bearding", Girdle
Fringes are hair-like lines that can occur around the girdle during the cutting
process. They can be removed by polished or re-cutting.
* Gneiss (n) Part of the later stage of the "rock cycle" (sedimentary > metamorphic > igneous),
gneiss (pronounced "nice") is a type of high-grade metamorphic that
is coarsely foliated and recrystallized but does not carry large quantities
of micas or other platy minerals. "Orthogneiss" designates gneiss
derived from an igneous rock, and "Paragneiss" is derived from a
sedimentary rock.
* Grain (n) Visible evidence of the crystal structure of a diamond. See "cleavage."
* idiochromatism (v) The presents of essential or major constituents within
the mineral's crystal lattice determine which wavelengths of light are reflected
and which are absorbed, determining color.
* Igneous rock (a, n) Igneous rocks are formed when molten rock (magma) cools
and solidifies, with or without crystallization, either below the surface as
intrusive (plutonic) rocks or on the surface as extrusive (volcanic) rocks.
* Inclusion (n) A visible foreign substance (flaw), fracture, or void inside
a diamond or gemstone. Inclusions can contain water which will cause the stone
to fracture when heated.
* Iridescence (v) Optical phenomenon describing a material's apparent surface
hue change corresponding to the angle at which the surface is viewed.
* Isotropic (a) A singly refractive gemstone such as Diamond.
* Kimberlite (Pipe) (n) Kimberlite is an igneous rock composed of olivine,
phlogopite, pyroxene and garnet, with a variety of chemically anomalous trace
minerals. Kimberlite occurs in the Earth's crust in vertical structures known
as kimberlite pipes.
* Lap (n) A grinding wheel or grinding surface used in a faceting machine such
as a "Facetron".
* Loupe (n) A small magnifying glass that is hand held or placed in the eye
socket. A 10X (10 times or 10 power) loupe should be used to examine gemstones.
* Lustre (n) From the Latin word "lux", meaning "light".
Describes the way light interacts with the surface of a mineral or gemstone.
* Macle (n) A twinned, irregular shaped pyramidal crystal. Derived from the
Latin word macula, "mesh."
* Mêlée (n) Rough stones and shapes under two carats. Also used
to describe small polished diamonds.
* Metamorphic Rock (a, n) They are formed deep beneath the Earth's surface
under great stress from high pressures and temperatures. Garnets are a Metamorphic
mineral.
* Mineralization (n) A process where an organic substance is converted to an
inorganic substance. This transformation process can occur in Fossilization.
* Mohs scale (a, n) Created, in 1812, by the German mineralogist Friedrich
Mohs, the Mohs' scale of hardness quantifies the scratch resistance of minerals
by comparing the ability of a harder material to scratch a softer material
ranging from Talc (1) to Diamond (10). Corundum (Ruby or Sapphire) has a hardness
of 9 therefore Diamond is 4x harder than Corundum.
* Monoclinic (a) In the monoclinic system, the crystal is described by three
vectors of unequal length. Two pairs of vectors are perpendicular, while the
third pair make an angle other than 90º.
* Nacre (n) In Pearls, multiple layers of calcium carbonate that surround a
nucleus and giving the pearl a iridescent appearance.
* Octahedron (n) A polyhedron with eight faces. A regular octahedron is a Platonic
solid composed of eight equilateral triangles.
* Parting (n) A plane of weakness in the crystal structure along planes that
are weakened by the application of force.
* Pegmatite (n) A coarse-grained igneous rock composed of feldspar mica, and
quartz, that is formed deep within the earth's crust. Pegmatite rock is usually
associated with Apitite, Aquamarine, Beryl, Topaz, Tourmaline, and Quartz.
* Perthite (n) Describes the intergrowth of two feldspars; potassium-rich alkali
feldspar, and lamellae intergrowths of sodic alkali feldspar.
* Pinpoint Inclusions (n) Minute light or dark crystals that are visible by
themselves or in clusters. Larger clusters of minute pinpoints can create a
hazy area in the diamond, called a cloud, affecting clarity.
* Pleochroism (n) Color changing effect created by light traveling along crystallographic
axes causing the mineral to display more than one color when rotating and/or
viewing the stone from different angles.
* Polycrystalline (n) A polycrystalline material is made of several smaller
crystallites (single crystals).
* Polymorphism (n) Meaning "many forms", a single chemical composition
can exist with two or more different crystal structures.
* Pseudochromatic (n) False color caused by optical effect such as spectral
dispersion (prism effect) or scattering.
* Pseudomorphism (n) A mineral that has the appearance of another mineral.
* Refractive Index (a, n) As light passes from air into a material it is bent
or refracted. The Refractive Index is a measure of the amount that light is
bent.
* Rutile (n) Rutile derives its name from the Latin word "Rutilus" or "red",
and is used to reference the deep red color observed in some specimens. Rutile
is a mineral composed of titanium dioxide and is a tetragonal mineral usually
forming in a prismatic or twinned configuration.
* Scintillation (n) Used to describe a secondary quality aspect of a gem's
brilliance, scintillation describes sparkle created with movement of the stone.
One of the three categories of 'brilliance', 'fire or dispersion' and 'scintillation'.
* Schist (n) Part of the later stage of the "rock cycle" (sedimentary > metamorphic > igneous),
schists is a type of metamorphic rock containing lamellar minerals such as
micas, chlorite, talc, and graphite, along with prismatic minerals and mineral
constituents, such as garnet and tourmaline.
* Sedimentary Rock (n) One of the three main rock groups along with igneous
and metamorphic rocks, it is formed by compaction, deposition, erosion, and
transportation. Sedimentary rocks cover 75% of the Earth's surface.
* Sediment (n) Sediment is any particulate matter that is transported by water
and eventually deposited as a layer of solid particles on the bed or bottom
of a body of water.
* Streak (n) The color which a mineral displays when it has been ground to
a fine powder.
* Surface Sparkle (n) A diamond's stationary brilliance, or brilliance without
movement. Sharp contrast of dark and light between adjacent facet reflections.
* Tenacity (v) The resistance of a mineral to breaking, crushing, or bending.
* Tetragonal Crystal (a, n) In crystallography, tetragonal crystal lattices
(structures) result from stretching a cubic lattice along one of its lattice
vectors, so that the cube becomes a rectangular prism with a square base.
* Thermal Shock (a) Fracturing of a gemstone due to rapid temperature change.
Moisture content that is trapped within inclusions or fissures can expand and
contract due to extreme temperature shifts, causing fracturing.
* Toughness (n) Toughness indicates a stone's resistance to breaking, chipping
or cracking when subjected to mechanical stress, impact, or a fall. Toughness
is rated as: exceptional, excellent, good, fair, poor.
* Trigonal (a) A crystal system is described by 3 basis vectors. In crystallography,
the trigonal crystal system is one of the 7 lattice point groups. Quartz is
represented as D3 in the Schoenflies notation of Point groups in 3 dimensions.
* Twinning (Crystal) (n) Two or more intergrown crystals, formed in a symmetrical
arrangement.
* Uniaxial Gemstones (a, n) In uniaxial stones, the optic axis is parallel
to the c-axis. Biaxial gemstones have two optical axes that do not line up
with the c-axis.
* Vitreous Lustre (Luster) (a) Describes a highly reflective, nonporous surface
similar to that of glass. A "glassy" reflective quality.
* Windowing (a) In faceted, colored gemstones, light that is not refracted
off of the pavilion and back through the crown and table will pass directly
through the stone, appearing like a hole or "window".
* Zoning (n) Angular or straight color banding or "zoning" in natural
gemstones and synthetics.
Jewelry Technique Glossary of Terms
* Acid Etching (n, a) Etch (derived from the German word "to corrode
or eat") involves immersing the metal in an acid solution while protecting
certain parts with a substance called a resist (asphaltum, rosin, wax, etc.)
in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.
* Amulet (n) An object or a talisman to protect against danger and the unknown.
* Anodizing (v) Anodising, or anodizing, is a technique used to dye and/or
modify the surface of a metal (usually titanium) using electrolysis. The dye
enters the pores in the etched oxide surface of the metal.
* Burnished Finish (a, n) A directional bright finish done by hand with a burnishing
tool or "burnisher".
* Cameo (n) A method of stone carving which creates a raised positive relief
image, contrasted with intaglio, which has a negative image.
* Chip Carving (a) Also called Kerbschnitt, chip carving involves using a metal-cutting
chisel to remove tiny chips from the metal's surface to create a pattern or
relief.
* Cloisonné (n) Cloisonné is a multi-step process where filigree
is inlaid with enamel to produce a wide variety of color in jewelry.
* Crucible (n) A cup-shaped bowl made of graphite and clay or ceramic in which
metals are melted to a liquid state.
* Electroplating (v) Depositing one type of metal onto the surface of another
type by using the process of electrolysis or an electro-chemical reaction.
Plated coatings are measured in microns.
* Filigree (n) Delicate jewelry or metalwork with wire soldered to a metal
background in patterns. Also describes pattern-work made with twisted threads
of gold and/or silver. Derived from the Latin words filum thread, and granum,
grain.
* Granulation (n) Similar to the shot ball technique, tiny granules or "grains" are
fusion-welded to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique
used for centuries in India and Nepal.
* Hammered Finish (v) Using a cross peen hammer to leave indented hammer marks
on the metal's surface.
* Intaglio (n) Intaglio is the opposite of cameo with an incised negative image.
Intaglio is used to make engraved seals, where it leaves a raised design on
the material being stamped.
* Lamination (v) The bonding of two different metals to create a pattern when
cross-sectioned. Damask Steel and Japanese "Mokumé Gane" or "Wood
Grain" are two examples of metal lamination to create a pattern.
* Lost wax casting (v) Creating an original artwork from wax, a mold is made
of the original sculpture. When the molten metal enters the mold, the wax evaporates
leaving the cast metal in its place.
* Metal Inlay (n) Imbedding or inserting of sheet metal or wire into an indentation
or groove in the surface of a finished piece of metal.
* Mirror Finish (a, n) A highly reflective surface with no visible abrasion
pattern. Created with rouge, muslin, or a flannel buffing wheel.
* Patina (n) Patina is a chemical film formed on the surface of metal through
wear, corrosion, or oxidization due to exposure to the elements. A patina is
often deliberately added by metalworkers.
* Repoussé (n) French for "to push back," Repoussé is
a technique for creating a relief design by pressing or hammering the inside
or backside of a metal surface.
* Reticulation (Samorodok) (n) Giving the surface of the metal a rough or wrinkled
texture (network or web) that has a naturally formed appearance. The process
(aka Samorodok) was popularized by Russian artists such as Fabergé.
* Satin Finish (v) A non-directional or directional finish created with abrasive
compounds that produce fine lines across the surface of the metal.
* Shank (n) The portion of a ring that encircles a finger. The shank holds
the head (setting), which in turn, holds the gemstone.
* Shot Ball (n) Metal fusion using tiny shot balls fused to the metal's surface
to create a pattern or design. A technique used in ancient Etruscan jewelry
to add texture to the surface.
* Scoring (a) Using a tool to engrave a groove or furrow into the flat surface
of the metal.
* Solder (v) A solder is a fusible metal alloy (gold solder: gold mixed with
lower melting metals) with a melting point below 450º C (840º F)
and is melted to join two metallic surfaces. Solder is used with flux which
removes impurities and oxidised metals from the points of contact.
* Tiffany Mounting (n) Refers to a solitaire mounting with a four or six prong
head to hold the diamond. The shank is usually simple and narrow.
Metallurgy Glossary of Terms
* Alchemy (a) Alchemy was the science (or pseudo-science) of combined disciplines
in chemistry, metallurgy, physics, and mysticism with the goal of transforming
base metals into precious metals.
* Alloy (n) A combination of two or more elements, at least one of which is
a metal, and where the resulting material has metallic properties. 14 carat
(58%) gold is an alloy of pure gold (24k) mixed with other elements.
* Alluvial Gold (a) Gold that is found in the soil or sediments deposited by
a river, stream, or other running water. (aka Placer of Surface Gold).
* Annealing (v) Multi-phased heat and stress treatment that alters the microstructure
of a metal adding strength, pliability, and hardness.
* Adamantine (a) Refers to the light reflecting properties of a metallic surface,
known as metallic lustre.
* Base Metal (a, n) Base metal is a term used to refer to a metal that oxidizes
or corrodes relatively easily as with copper, iron, nickel, lead and zinc.
* Carat (n) The term "Carat", "Karat" or "k" is
used to indicate the amount of pure (24k) gold in the alloy. Lower Carat ratings
indicate proportionally less pure gold.
* Carbon (n) Carbon is a chemical element in the periodic table (C) and atomic
number 6. An abundant nonmetallic, tetravalent element, carbon has several
allotropic forms including Diamond. Carbon occurs in all organic life and is
the most basic element in organic chemistry.
* Corrosion (n) Corrosion indicates the deterioration of a metallic material
due to its reaction and subsequent oxidation due to a chemical reaction with
water and/or oxygen.
* Ductile (v) A physical quality ascribed to a metal that will permit plastic
elongation (wire drawing) without fracturing.
* Forging (Forged) (v) Heating a metal to a temperature where the metal becomes
malleable (red hot) or deforming its shape by compression or exertion of force
(hammering or cold forging).
* Goldsmith (n) A goldsmith is a metalworker who specializes in working with
precious metals to create jewelry.
* Hydrous (a) A hydrous compound is formed by the addition of water to a host
molecule. In inorganic chemistry, hydrates contain water molecules that are
either bound to a metal center or crystallize with the metal complex.
* Ingot (n) An ingot is a mass of metal heated past its melting point and then
cast into the shape of a bar or block.
* Lustre (n) From the Latin word "lux", meaning "light".
Describes the way light interacts with the surface of a mineral or metal.
* Malleable (v) A physical quality ascribed to a metal that can be compressed,
deformed, extruded, hammered, and rolled.
* Mineralization (n) In Metellurgy, mineralization is used to describe the
hydrothermal (heat and water vapor) deposition of metals in the formation of
ore.
* Mohs scale (a, n) Created, in 1812, by the German mineralogist Friedrich
Mohs, the Mohs' scale of hardness quantifies the scratch resistance of minerals
by comparing the ability of a harder material to scratch a softer material
ranging from Talc (1) to Diamond (10).
* Noble metal (a, n) Noble metals are highly resistant to corrosion or oxidation
and include gold, silver, platinum, tantalum, and rhodium.
* Ore (n) An ore is a volume of rock containing components or minerals which
renders it valuable for mining. Rare samples of metallic ore are found in large
nuggets or chrystaline formations of metals such as gold or copper.
* Oxidation (v) Oxidation removes electrons from a metal, and is thus reduces
its mass. Oxidation (Redox) reactions include all chemical processes in which
atoms have their oxidation number (oxidation state) changed.
* Periodic Table (n) The periodic table of chemical elements is a tabular method
used to classify, systematize and compare all the 116 (94 natural, 22 synthetic)
basic chemical elements.
* Placer Gold (n) Surface gold found in sand or gravel or "free metallic" "stream
placer gold." Named after the Spanish word placer meaning "sand bank",
or "alluvial deposit."
* Plastic (v) A physical quality ascribed to a metal that can be bent and worked
without rupturing. A non-brittle metal.
* Metamorphic Rock (n) Metamorphic rock make up a large part of the Earth's
crust. They are formed deep beneath the Earth's surface under great stress
from high pressures and temperatures.
* Reef Gold (n) Gold found through "hard rock mining", reef gold
is synonymous with the terms ledge, lode, and vein. Reef gold is solid masses
of gold that is imbedded into a matrix of a wide variety of other rocks and
minerals.
* Smelting (v) smelting, is a form of extractive metallurgy used to produce
a metal from its basic ore components.
* Vickers Hardness (n) The Vickers Hardness test is used to quantifying a materials'
ability to resist plastic deformation when force is applied from a standard
source. Result is known as "Vickers Pyramid Number" or (HV).
Back to Top
|